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Interviews

Rewriting the Rules of English Winemaking: Tillingham’s Biodynamic Vision

With sustainability now a non-negotiable demand from consumers, we speak to Tierney Beames about how Tillingham Wines stands at the forefront of biodynamic winemaking in the UK

Nestled in the picturesque countryside of East Sussex, Tillingham Wines is more than just a vineyard—it's a living example of how winemaking can coexist harmoniously with nature. Spread across 70 acres of rolling hills, woodlands, and farmland, Tillingham’s philosophy revolves around a sustainable and biodynamic approach. From their polycultural farming methods to the state-of-the-art cellar practices, the estate aims to honour both ancient traditions and modern innovation.

At the helm of their wine program is Tierney Beames, who brings his passion for natural wines and a wealth of experience from his sommelier background. In this interview, Tierney takes us through his personal journey, the ethos behind Tillingham’s approach, and the future of biodynamic winemaking in an ever-changing world.

Edited excerpts from the interview.

What first sparked your interest in winemaking, leading you to Tillingham’s biodynamic vineyard?

I got into wine through working in hospitality, falling down the rabbit hole a little bit by accident. Through tasting and studying, I found my way into the sommelier realm of the wine world. Tillingham represented the kind of wines I am passionate about, but it also gave me the chance to be part of the process—from the vineyard to the guest's glass in the restaurant. The wines here were pushing boundaries in the UK at the time, making it an exciting place to be.

What drew you to focus on natural wines?

As I was studying, certain wines jumped out—they felt more vibrant or alive. It started with taste, but as I researched those producers, I realized they all shared an ethos around farming and winemaking. Understanding that natural wine is a method, not a style, cemented my passion for it.

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Are there any books, resources, or mentors that have significantly influenced your approach to biodynamic and natural winemaking?

Books by Alice Feiring and Isabelle Legeron are fantastic resources for understanding natural wine. Wink Lorch’s books are also favorites of mine. Beyond that, the community of importers and distributors I worked with as a sommelier played a huge role in shaping my taste and knowledge of low-intervention producers.

Is there a particular wine region or style that inspires you in your winemaking journey?

In the UK, we naturally lean toward lighter-bodied, high-acid wines, so it helps to look at regions with similar characteristics. I particularly love wines from the Savoie—they inspire me while reminding me that our own terroir has its unique story to tell.

Biodynamic Wines by Tillingham

Biodynamic Wines by Tillingham Wines (Source: Instagram)

In your experience, what are the essential skills for making wine in a biodynamic system, and how do they differ from conventional winemaking practices?

You have a different set of tools at your disposal in biodynamic winemaking. While the challenges in the vineyard are universal, biodynamics requires you to anticipate and respond to issues proactively rather than relying on heavy-handed or chemical fixes. Being in tune with your vineyard and wines is crucial.

What aspects of winemaking bring you the most joy, and what are the most challenging?

I love tasting and following the ferments in the winery—seeing them change so drastically on their own is a lot of fun. The challenge lies in understanding and guiding that journey without overstepping.

Biodynamic winemaking is gaining increasing attention. What is it about this approach that sets it apart, and how do you see it shaping the future of the wine industry?

Winemaking occupies a lot of land and resources worldwide. With the state of the climate, consumers are gravitating toward producers who adopt a holistic, lighter-touch approach. Biodynamics embodies that—it’s about working with nature rather than taming it.

How does Tillingham’s commitment to sustainability influence both the vineyard and cellar practices, from the cultivation of grapes to the final bottle?

In the vineyard, sustainability is integral to our biodynamic approach. For example, in wet years like 2024, we focus on practical measures like mowing and leaf stripping to prevent mildew, avoiding fungicides. In the cellar, we reduce waste through initiatives like keykegs, which replace 27 glass bottles per 20L keg and are fully recyclable. At every stage, we aim for the best product with the lightest footprint.

Tillingham Vineyards

Tillingham Vineyard (Source: Instagram)

As sustainability becomes more of a focus in winemaking, what role do you believe biodynamic practices play in producing wines that not only taste great but also contribute positively to the environment?

Biodynamic practices are about striving for healthier, more balanced farming. The result is quality fruit that provides a strong foundation for great-tasting wines. It’s a win-win for both the environment and the final product.

How do you balance honoring traditional winemaking techniques with innovation?

Our vessels in the winery are a great example of this balance. We use everything from ancient Georgian qvevri to modern temperature-controlled steel tanks. Each brings something unique—the qvevri adds texture, while temperature control supports wild yeast fermentations.

Can you share any innovative practices or techniques you’re exploring at Tillingham to further enhance the expression of your wines?

One technique our head winemaker, Salvatore Leone, uses involves floating a boat of sulfur on the surface of the wine in the tank, rather than adding it directly. This protects the wine while allowing it to remain expressive.

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Is there any aspect of winemaking you’re currently learning or exploring more deeply?

Making red wine in the UK is always a challenge, and we’re constantly experimenting with new methods. Techniques like whole-bunch fermentation or layering in "lasagne-style" ferments are areas we’re exploring to create reds that embrace their unique identity.

Header image sourced from Tillingham Wines

Related Links: 
Harry Crowther: Redefining Wine Buying and Education in the UK Market 
Canard-Duchêne’s Legacy and Future: A Deep Dive with CEO Jérôme Durand

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