Nestled in the heart of the Alentejo region in Portugal, Torre de Palma, apart from being a boutique hotel offers its guests a glimpse into Portuguese winemaking heritage. From educating visitors about the nuances of Portuguese wine, their traditions, to allowing them to be a part of the winemaking process Torre de Palma honours the bounty of its soil in all its glory. And at the forefront of their winery and estate is Duarte de Deus, a winemaker whose deep connection to the land and passion for Portuguese grape varieties has shaped his philosophy. 

In an exclusive interview, Duarte opens up about his winemaking philosophy, rooted in respect for tradition, a passion for innovation, and a commitment to sustainability. At Torre de Palma, his work continues to elevate the wines of the Alentejo, bringing the region’s unique terroir and heritage to life in every bottle.

Edited excerpts from the interview.

Could you share a bit about your background and how your journey into winemaking began?

I grew up with a strong connection to the land and a passion for agriculture. My journey into winemaking began when I studied oenology and viticulture. Portugal’s diversity of over 250 grape varieties fascinated me, offering endless potential to craft distinctive wines. My first harvest was in the Alentejo in 2004/2005, and I’ve been captivated by the region ever since. In 2017, I joined Torre de Palma, where I’ve been able to bring my skills to this incredible terroir.

What are your favourite books that have influenced your winemaking journey?

Two books have profoundly shaped my approach. Tratado de Viticultura by Nuno Magalhães deepened my understanding of the vineyard-wine connection, while Enologia by Colette Navarre provided a comprehensive guide to the science and techniques behind winemaking. Both have been instrumental in building my technical foundation.

Could you tell us about a memorable moment or turning point in your career?

Producing our first vintage at Torre de Palma in 2017 was a defining moment. Seeing the fruit of our labour embodied in a bottle, especially with wines like our Reserva da Família, was incredibly rewarding. It reinforced the profound connection between the land, the people, and the wine—a realisation that continues to inspire me.

Is there a wine region or style that particularly inspires you?

The northern Alentejo inspires me with its unique terroir. Its blend of clay, schist, and granite soils, combined with Atlantic and continental influences, creates a perfect environment for diverse grape varieties. The old vineyards in this area, cultivated for generations, yield fruit with remarkable complexity and depth, offering a distinct identity that I strive to reflect in our wines.

[[relatedPurchasesItems-38]]

What are the essential skills for a successful winemaker?

A successful winemaker must have a strong sense of observation and patience, as winemaking is as much about understanding the nuances of nature as it is about technique. A good winemaker also needs to be adaptable, as each vintage can bring new challenges. Knowledge of both the vineyard and the cellar is key, as is the ability to collaborate with other experts and continuously learn.

What aspects of winemaking bring you the most joy, and which are the most challenging?

The most joyful part of winemaking is seeing the transformation from grape to wine. The harvest is always a special moment, as it marks the culmination of months of work in the vineyard. But the most challenging part, for me, is the decision-making process during fermentation and ageing. There are always difficult choices to make, and it’s a balance of science, intuition, and experience.

How do you see the winemaker’s role in marketing and sales?

As a winemaker, I believe that our role goes beyond just making the wine. We are also storytellers. The wine we create tells the story of the vineyard, the land, and the people who work with it. We are key contributors to the marketing process, as we help shape the identity of the wine and communicate its value. A successful winemaker is one who can create a product that resonates with consumers and helps drive the brand forward.

How do you balance honouring tradition with innovation in winemaking?

For me, it’s about respecting the traditions that have been passed down while embracing innovation where it can enhance quality and sustainability. At Torre de Palma, we take pride in the traditions of the region, but we also experiment with new techniques and technology to ensure we are producing the best wine possible. It’s all about finding a balance between preserving the essence of the past and being open to progress.

What are you currently exploring in wine?

I'm currently focusing on sustainability, both in the vineyard and in the winery. We're exploring friendly farming practices and the use of artisanal winemaking techniques that respect the grape varieties. It's an exciting area to explore because it aligns with my personal values of working in harmony with nature. We're also working on the Alentejo Wines Sustainability Plan.

Image Credits: Duarte de Deus

How do sustainability and environmental challenges impact your approach?

Sustainability is fundamental to our approach here at Torre de Palma. In the vineyard, we use a mix of farming practices and focus on soil health, water conservation and reducing the use of pesticides and fertilisers. In the winery, we are committed to maintaining traditional techniques. The red grapes are still trodden by foot in marble lagares, and we have amphorae for some white, rosé and red wines that are called Musas and whose label is an ancient Roman mosaic found nearby in the Roman villa of Torre de Palma. This recipient which allows the wine to express its true character. We are constantly looking for ways to improve our sustainability practices, both to preserve the land and to create better wines.

What advice would you give to new winemakers?

My advice would be to be patient and always remain curious. Winemaking is a lifelong learning process, and there’s always something new to discover. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but also learn from the mistakes you make along the way. Building experience is key, and it’s important to respect both the science and the artistry of the craft.

What’s one lesson you’ve learned that you wish you knew when starting?

I wish I had known earlier that winemaking isn’t just about following a recipe—it’s about understanding the nuances of the vineyard and the year’s climate. Every vintage is different, and it’s the ability to adapt that makes a great winemaker. The lesson I’ve learned is to trust in the process and in nature’s ability to guide us, even when things don’t go as planned.

Header image sourced from Duarte de Deus.

Related Links:
Blending Heritage With Innovation: The Story Of Condado Portucalense 
From Cornwall to International Acclaim: Sam Lindo is Taking English Sparkling Wine to New Heights